With the hotly anticipated opening of Hoppers comes with it the tastes and smells of Sri Lanka slap-bang in the heart of Soho from the team behind the magical Gymkhana. A ‘hopper’ is a bowl-shaped pancake made from fermented rice and coconut milk that happens to be the healthy, light alternative tool to shovel curry into one’s mouth, waving goodbye to the days of bloat-inducing naan bread. With a fried egg broken into the hopper when cooking adds another layer of deliciousness to this Sri Lankan crêpe.
The humble tiled decor teems with pot plants but has no need to impress when the food is this good; lamb, fish and red pumpkin karis are enjoyed with lashings of coconut and tomato chutneys, rolled podi dosa and caramelised onion seeni sambol or work through the tasty short eats of hot buttered devilled shrimps, duck roti or cashew and ash plaintain fries.
There’s nothing here that won’t wow your tastebuds and be sure to finish with their milk hopper laced with kithul treacle, jaggery and durian ice-cream. Continuing the Soho trend of no reservations shouldn’t deter you from a visit. Food is fast and furious and you can wait with a crisp Sri Lankan beer.